|  | Topic : Rear Brake Guide |  |
| | | DrMooman | | Set |  | | Reg. Date | : | 09/08/2016 | | Posts | : | 73 | | Location | : | Wales, Wales, United Kingdom |
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| | Posted : 12 Feb 2017 - 18:35 Post title : Rear Brake Guide | | | As usual, comments and improvements welcome
Any DIY should now be able to tackle the rear brakes.
When i get some more tools, i'll be able to write a guide on the brake disc- I need a run out and a micrometer
Link
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| | | Snyperx | | Set | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 14/10/2015 | | Posts | : | 175 | | Location | : | Madison, Wisconsin, United States |
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| | Posted : 21 Mar 2017 - 14:01 Post title : Re: Rear Brake Guide (Re: DrMooman) | | | I attempted to replace my rear pads last night with the wheel on and ran into a problem. After getting the new EBC pads installed I tried to reinstall the retaining pin, but could not get t to go back it. I even greased the pin with high temp brake grease before assembly. I tried to tap it in from the right side, but all it did was push the floating caliper out causing it to bind up. So at this stage I have not been able to reassemble the rear caliper.
Any thoughts on how to get the retaining pin back in??
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Regards,
Snyperx
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2012 Thunderbird 1600
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| | | DrMooman | | Set | | | Reg. Date | : | 09/08/2016 | | Posts | : | 73 | | Location | : | Wales, Wales, United Kingdom |
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| | Posted : 21 Mar 2017 - 14:15 Post title : Re: Rear Brake Guide (Re: Snyperx) | | | Sorry to hear you have been problems. If you could post pictures that might help. Could the pads not be in the right place relative to the anti rattle spring? There is also a you tube video (Link of someone else doing it without removing the wheel. As you can see from my instructions I did it with the wheel off, I'm not sure if that made it easier
Keep us posted on how you go. Hopefully as a community we can help
| | Post edited by DrMooman on 21 Mar 2017 - 18:47 |
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| | | Snyperx | | Set | | | | Reg. Date | : | 14/10/2015 | | Posts | : | 175 | | Location | : | Madison, Wisconsin, United States |
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| | Posted : 22 Mar 2017 - 02:31 Post title : Re: Rear Brake Guide (Re: DrMooman) | | | Here is a pic of the pad retention pin I cannot get back into place. You can see the pin and collar sticking out from left side of the caliper.
[IMG]
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Regards,
Snyperx
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2012 Thunderbird 1600
| | Post edited by Snyperx on 22 Mar 2017 - 02:36 |
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| | | fab | | Thor | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 12/10/2009 | | Posts | : | 2,515 | | Location | : | wyong, nsw, Australia |
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| | Posted : 22 Mar 2017 - 05:58 Post title : Re: Rear Brake Guide (Re: Snyperx) | | | looks like your disc isn't centred or is warped or wheel isn't aligned right as the disc isn't touching the pads at the bottom or is that an elusion
I would also make sure that the calliper is sliding and not binding.
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Remember, soft cocks hang around all life long, hard ones come and go
ahh f**k im deep
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| | | DrMooman | | Set | | | Reg. Date | : | 09/08/2016 | | Posts | : | 73 | | Location | : | Wales, Wales, United Kingdom |
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| | Posted : 22 Mar 2017 - 07:07 Post title : Re: Rear Brake Guide (Re: Snyperx) | | | I'm no mechanic- so i think it is fair to say i don't really know what i am talking about. But.... based on my knowledge base....
Just in case it is the obvious. The pin goes in from the left side (the wheel side)- based on the orientation of the picture. It will be hard if not impossible to get it in from the outside.
Have a look at the old brake pads and see if there has been uneven wear. If you suspect that is the problem then try putting the old brake pads in and see if the gap is gone and everything lines up.
If the disc isn't in line with the calliper/pads then check the position of the floating calliper- but that looks like it is in the right position.
If it looks like the disc then it is either the wheel alignment or the disc- use the alignment tool to check the wheel is straight relative to the swing arm (if you are checking the belt alignment you should use a laser alignment tool measuring cog to cog, but for the wheel relative to the swing-arm the alignment tool is probably the best option)
If the wheel is straight, the bike hasn't been dropped and the swing arm is straight then check the disc. As you can see in this youtube video (not me) that the disc's should float on their bobbins. Link To check that, remove the brake pads and see if the bobbins around the disc actually move and the disc has some movement in it. If not then the disc is stuck due to road grime. The disc can also warp and wear unevenly due to a variety of reasons. You can get a brake runout kit to check to see how much that is happening. But for ease of diagnosis you could probably just turn the wheel around and see if it is different in different spots to get a ball park idea, but not an accurate idea.
But it also looks like there is a gap between the back of the brake pad and the calliper pistons. Can't the calliper move a little over and that would give you that bit more needed to pop the pin all the way in? If that is the case, still check the rest of the things.
So....
If the disc moves and/or isn't warn unevenly
If the wheel is aligned properly
If the rear calliper is in the right spot
If they are the right brake pads
If the anti-rattle spring isn't damage or moved out of place
If the pin is not bent and you are putting it in from the appropriate side.....
Then that is the extent of my knowledge unfortunately.
If none of that works i hope someone more knowledgable than me has an idea and posts suggestions. If not it sounds like the mobile mechanic is needed. Or remove the pads and dangerously travel to the nearest mechanic using your front brake.
Either way, good luck
| | Post edited by DrMooman on 22 Mar 2017 - 07:11 |
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| | | Snyperx | | Set | | | | Reg. Date | : | 14/10/2015 | | Posts | : | 175 | | Location | : | Madison, Wisconsin, United States |
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| | Posted : 22 Mar 2017 - 15:54 Post title : Re: Rear Brake Guide (Re: DrMooman) | | |
DrMooman wrote:
I'm no mechanic- so i think it is fair to say i don't really know what i am talking about. But.... based on my knowledge base....
Just in case it is the obvious. The pin goes in from the left side (the wheel side)- based on the orientation of the picture. It will be hard if not impossible to get it in from the outside.
Have a look at the old brake pads and see if there has been uneven wear. If you suspect that is the problem then try putting the old brake pads in and see if the gap is gone and everything lines up.
If the disc isn't in line with the calliper/pads then check the position of the floating calliper- but that looks like it is in the right position.
If it looks like the disc then it is either the wheel alignment or the disc- use the alignment tool to check the wheel is straight relative to the swing arm (if you are checking the belt alignment you should use a laser alignment tool measuring cog to cog, but for the wheel relative to the swing-arm the alignment tool is probably the best option)
If the wheel is straight, the bike hasn't been dropped and the swing arm is straight then check the disc. As you can see in this youtube video (not me) that the disc's should float on their bobbins. Link To check that, remove the brake pads and see if the bobbins around the disc actually move and the disc has some movement in it. If not then the disc is stuck due to road grime. The disc can also warp and wear unevenly due to a variety of reasons. You can get a brake runout kit to check to see how much that is happening. But for ease of diagnosis you could probably just turn the wheel around and see if it is different in different spots to get a ball park idea, but not an accurate idea.
But it also looks like there is a gap between the back of the brake pad and the calliper pistons. Can't the calliper move a little over and that would give you that bit more needed to pop the pin all the way in? If that is the case, still check the rest of the things.
So....
If the disc moves and/or isn't warn unevenly
If the wheel is aligned properly
If the rear calliper is in the right spot
If they are the right brake pads
If the anti-rattle spring isn't damage or moved out of place
If the pin is not bent and you are putting it in from the appropriate side.....
Then that is the extent of my knowledge unfortunately.
If none of that works i hope someone more knowledgable than me has an idea and posts suggestions. If not it sounds like the mobile mechanic is needed. Or remove the pads and dangerously travel to the nearest mechanic using your front brake.
Either way, good luck
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Keep in mind the caliper pistons have been pushed back into the caliper housing to provide the most space for installing the pads. If I could of gotten the pad retention pin in I would of then pressed the brake pedal down which in turn would properly seat the pads against the rotor. So the rotor is not warped and nothing is bent.
Its that damn retaining pin I can't get back in. The metal collar on the pin won't press in. I did take a punch and a hammer to push the pad retention pin out when I was initially trying to remove the old pads. Once the pin was out and the caliper pistons pushed back in the swapping the pads was a piece of cake.
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Regards,
Snyperx
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2012 Thunderbird 1600
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| | | Linkdog | | Thor | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 10/02/2011 | | Posts | : | 2,947 | | Location | : | Groveland, FL., United States |
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| | Posted : 22 Mar 2017 - 23:25 Post title : Re: Rear Brake Guide (Re: Snyperx) | | | Yes the pin is a pain at times. Try removing the pin and clean it with brake cleaner in case of any grime. I use a 10" 3/8 extention to drive it in and sometimes with some force. Yes you removed it the right way with a mallet and drift. To me the hardest thing is finding the hole for the retaining clip.
| Never drink from a cow with one udder! 2010 1600 Blue&White ( of course ) Long TORS and HP filter.
| | Post edited by Linkdog on 22 Mar 2017 - 23:26 |
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| | | GerPa | | Jupiter | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 10/12/2011 | | Posts | : | 1,919 | | Location | : | Mackay, Central Queensland, Australia |
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| | Posted : 23 Mar 2017 - 22:10 Post title : Re: Rear Brake Guide (Re: Linkdog) | | | 
|  May-2011-1600, 20306 Tune, Mustang Vintage Solo Seat, Meerkat Cat Bypass, + Meerkat Modified Short TORS  ,K&N Air Cleaner,K&N Oil Filter, JBQ lifting system, Gold Plug Magnetic Sump Plug,Dart Fly screen, Rivco Risers, GiPro Gear Indicator, Breakaway Cruise Control, Avon ISO Grips, Scorpion Western Low Handlebars, Kury Switchblade Pegs, Garmin Zumo390LM,Michelin RC2 on Front RC 3 on ,Modified Rear Drive Pulley Hub Bearings (Mat1600/Alex4 Modification) Front Susp: Std & 7.5W Oil /126mm Air Gap & Rear:Hagon Nitro's with 26Kg/cm Springs + Lots of other "Bling" stuff.
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| | | davetac1 | | Thunderbird | | | Reg. Date | : | 06/09/2010 | | Posts | : | 8,379 | | Location | : | Haverhill, Ma., United States |
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| | Posted : 23 Mar 2017 - 23:22 Post title : Re: Rear Brake Guide (Re: Linkdog) | | | When you put that pin back in,first,it needs to be nice and CLEAN, then,lightly lubed with NEVER SEIZE or equivilent [cause the next guy that takes it out just might be YOU] and lightly taped back into place,then the little jesus clip put in.I've done this at least 15 times which is how many rear tires I've changed on my bike since I've owned it.To remove it,ya remove that little jesus clip ,then use a punch the same size or alittle smaller,to tap it out.It's really NOT that difficult to do.  Dave!!!
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